Walking into Pamilya feels like accidentally wandering into a family reunion you didn’t know you were invited to, but are very, very glad you came to anyway. At least that’s what happened to two Chinese boys walking into a small restaurant tucked in the back of a Redwood City strip mall, trying modern Filipino comfort food for the first time.
Be it from the inviting interior decor or the laughs of the cooks in the back, Pamilya — aptly named after the Tagalog word for “family” — welcomed this renowned Campanile reviewer duo with open arms.
The restaurant blends the beauty of the Filipino tropics with a sleek, modern interior design. The space is small and cozy, and it’s flooded with natural light that’s amplified by the white marble tables. The walls are filled with murals of green tropical plants and landscapes, while basket-woven light fixtures hang between rows of leafy vines on the ceiling. A neon-pink cursive sign reading “Good Vibes, Good Food” glows on the back wall, giving the feel of a breezy summer AirBnB resort.
Ordering happens at the counter, where you choose between three different entree sizes, each offering a combination of bases, entrees and toppings: one entree serving ($17.99), one entree and a side ($19.95) and two entrees and a side ($24.00). Bases include rice, noodles and vegetables, while entrees range from Filipino barbecue to seafood. While writing awesome columns is our expertise, pronouncing the dishes was not — luckily for us, the staff were friendly and more than willing to put up with our horrendous attempts at doing so.
Mango Calamansi Boba ($6.75)
We started with a mango calamansi boba — a staple of the average Bay Area teenage diet. At $6.75, the drink is similarly priced to bobas from other spots in the bay, but its taste was a refreshing departure from the typical sugar-laden boba. Made without milk, the freshness of the mango came through strong, and a hint of mint helped emphasize the drink’s tanginess. Small mango-flavored pearls sat at the bottom of the drink, less chewy than traditional tapioca but still rounding out the drink. 7/10
Entrees
We couldn’t skip the Filipino classic: chicken adobo. The meat was slow-cooked to the point of falling apart, simmered in a vinegary, garlicky sauce with deep soy undertones. A hint of acid added sour notes, balanced by a slight sweetness that rounded out the flavor to create a cohesive savoriness. Topped with green onions, the dish had just the right crunch. While we don’t have a Lola (Filipino grandma) to use as a baseline, we suspect this adobo holds up. 8/10
In contrast, the Manila chicken barbecue, served on skewers, featured an umami, sugary glaze reminiscent of Chinese char siu. The chicken was incredibly tender, and the accompanying garlic-vinegar delightfully offsets the glaze’s intense sweetness. For roasted meat lovers, this one’s a must. 9/10
Bases
First up was the pancit canton: thick, sauce-coated noodles mixed with a variety of vegetables. A Filipino take on Chinese lo mein — Chinese immigrants introduced noodles to the Philippines — this version was noticeably more garlicky than its Chinese counterpart. Pickled toppings, including cucumber, red onion and papaya, added a crunchy, acidic contrast to the rich noodles. While flavorful, the garlic taste was overpowering, especially since many other components of the meal also leaned heavily on garlic. 6/10
The sotanghon, made with glass noodles in a soy-based sauce, was a lighter alternative. The semi-translucent noodles are an acquired taste due to their bouncy, gelatinous texture, but the dish’s delicate sauce and accompanying peas and carrots provided a subtle contrast that balanced the richness of the heavier entrees. 8/10
Sides
Displayed on the heated shelf, the lumpia were impossible to resist. Lumpia are a type of spring roll, introduced by early Hokkien immigrants from China. Lightly fried and stuffed with pork and vegetables, the lumpia needed the agre dulce — sweet-and-sour dipping sauce — to combat some of the dryness. Similarly, the chicken empanadas had a flaky exterior, though with so many layers, it ended up tasting quite mealey. Despite the thick crust, the sweet-savory chicken filling won us over. We only wished both came in larger portions. 7.5/10
Dessert ($7.25)
We didn’t believe we’d have room for dessert, but the Sweet Shelby — banana bread pudding — was too tempting to resist. With actual chunks of banana in the pudding, the sweet and creamy banana flavor really packed a punch. Coated with caramel sauce and vanilla ice cream, the dessert had a unique temperature contrast between these components and the warm pudding. Similar to other classic desserts with a side of ice cream, the smooth texture paired nicely with the density of the bread pudding. A perfect ending. 9/10
Final Thoughts
With powerful sweet, sour and savory flavors in each base, side and entree, Pamilya creates a cohesive food experience that tastes somehow both exciting and familiar. The staff waved and the scent followed us as we stepped out of the restaurant, closing the chapter on our series of columns with a meal that reminded us why we fell in love with writing food reviews in the first place. 10/10
Address: 756 Woodside Rd, Redwood City, CA